GRAND UNION

Do you remember the Sham 69 classic If The Kids Are United, They Will Never be Divided? That’s just how I feel today, post-Scottish referendum. I’m chuffed that we’re to remain a UK – and not just a K – as we’re a great family, bickering, dysfunctional, and yet irrevocably intertwined, just like all the best families, from The Simpsons backwards. Being half Welsh, and spending my formative years in Ireland, I know more than most that can we happily co-exist while championing our cultural differences. And I hope we’ll continue to evolve while finding meaningful ways to devolve.

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TEK

Welcome to the launch of TEK shirts.

TEK is a unique project from New Future Graphic, Timothy Everest and Eley Kishimoto, born of a shared vision to define incisive new directions in print, tailoring and design. The perfect product, conceived and created in London. TEK is presented in a contemporary context, with construction that draws from and celebrates the best of British heritage and craft.

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The first project for the partnership is The Shirt, a perfect starting point for printer and tailor to meet. Hand screen printed cotton shirtings from the EK design Studio in Brixton are exquisitively shaped and detailed by Timothy Everest tailors of Shoreditch. The finished product has been manufactured and packaged under art direction from New Future Graphic. This first TEK project is a concerted effort to take a locally produced and crafted shirt to a global market.

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These shirts form creative staples for any man’s wardrobe, whether dressing smartly with a printed twist, or casually in a smart patterned style. As popular for women as a ‘boyfriend’ shirt as it is for men.

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This is Project 1 of an ongoing series.

BUY BRITISH GUEST BLOG: WAYNE HEMINGWAY

We really undersell ourselves in this country. I think people need reminding about the benefits of not only buying British, but also manufacturing in Britain. My generation – I’m 53 now – was brought up with our parents going to factories and making things; I grew up in Blackburn, where textile manufacturing was a huge part of the town’s DNA. Manufacturing generally creates positive employment, and it supports British designers; in fact, it’s sometimes the only way for smaller designers to get started. We’d never have got Red Or Dead off the ground if we hadn’t set up our own manufacturing unit in a freezing cold mill in Blackburn.

At Hemingway design today, we try our utmost to make as many of our products as possible in the UK. We love touring the factories and seeing the production process in action. At the moment we’re working with Royal Doulton in the Wedgwood factory, and Silent Night in Oldswick and Herbert Parkinson in Darwen, both in Lancashire, on bed linen and furnishings, and they’re all uplifting environments, where people have tremendous job satisfaction. I can’t stand shitty TV like The X Factor where people go “I work in a factory, if I don’t become a star my life is over” – that’s just the cliched and simplistic narrative that programmes of that ilk peddle.

Buy British Day, and the Best Of Britannia event, is a great showcase for the wealth of manufacturing talent that still exists in this country. It can also point up all the positives that “Made In Britain” can bring to the UK – that jobs bring employment, obviously, plus the sense of pride and achievement that comes with making things. Then there’s the question of sustainability, and what we all gain from not shipping things from one side of the world to the other, and the ethical side – if it’s made in the UK, it’s a pretty safe bet that the workers are being treated and paid fairly, and you’re not sustaining a system that brutally exploits its workforce. And last but not least, if it’s made here, there’s more money coming into the economy. So if you can afford to pay, say, £7 for a British-made white t-shirt, and there’s one for £5 that was made in Bangladesh or China or somewhere, and they’re identical, you should go for the UK one. It’s not always easy, but people need to engage with the provenance of the things they buy a bit more. There’s more to it than morality – we all stand to gain if we invest in this country a bit more. People overseas seem more excited about British-made goods than we seem to be; we need to get as enthused as they are.

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Wayne Hemingway

The List.. September

TO SLEEP | Rosewood London – 252 High Holborn, London – WC1V 7EN

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Modern, metropolitan but not loosing any of its Edwardian grandeur, The Rosewood is luxury through and through. From the sumptuous 300 thread count bed linin, to the mean vesper martinis, this really is the perfect place to sink in and enjoy.

 

 

TO EAT | Bravas Tapas – Ivory House – St Katharine Docks – E1 (020 7481 1464, bravastapas.co.uk). Daily noon-10.30pm (10pm Sun)

Bravas Tapas Pictures Adrian Lourie www.adrianlourie.co.uk 07804906540

My friend’s new restaurant ensconced on the enviable position of London’s waterfront, Bravas Tapas really is a treat. Whether its tucking into the wholesome morcilla de burgos sliders with green-apple slaw and Idiazabal cheese, savoring the richness of foie gras-stuffed quail crisped in a version of pancetta or enjoying the simple delight of cured ham from an acorn fed pig, the food, the attention to detail from the staff and the view, will not disappoint. Definitely worth a visit or two…

 

 

TO DRINK | Tonteria – 7-12 Sloane Square – SW1W 8EG

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If you’re after a serious tequila bar, this is the place. With maliciously crafted Mexican ramshackle and bottles of tequila stretching up to £5000 Tonteria has the bustle and the flair to ensure you have a night to remember.

 

TO INSPIRE | London Fashion Week

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Milan, Paris, New York, the list goes on but right on our doorstep, London has to be our favourite. Always exciting, always dynamic and always inspiring. London fashion week is a truly special event.

 

TO DRIVE | Goodwood Revival

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I will be wearing three piece mustard Harris tweed tattersall check shirt Spitalfields flower woven silk tie rust and lilac with mauve handkerchief with bespoke amesbury Oxford boots. Driving a lotus 7.

 

TO SHOOT | E.J. Churchill

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The shooting season is shortly arriving and this year we are particularly excited as we’ve been creating ladies shooting wear. Here’s a a sneak preview..

 

TO BUY | Apple iWatch

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A useful snack for on the move.

Cool Wool Auction Starts Today!

To coincide with London Collections: Men (LC:M) last season, The Woolmark Company invited several leading UK fashion designers to participate in a Sheep Art campaign, as part of its larger, global Cool Wool apparel campaign.

Christopher Raeburn, Lou Dalton, Paul Smith, Richard James, SIBLING and I are all familiar with Merino wool and have used the natural, renewable and biodegradable fibre in their collections each season and again for their SS15 collections in lighter weight Cool Wool qualities.

We were asked to create their interpretation of a Merino sheep, which not only complements the use of Merino wool for their SS15 collections but also embodies the essence of Cool Wool: that wool is a fibre for all seasons.

Following LC:M, each original Sheep Art has been donated to the British Fashion Council (BFC) for use in this auction in support of the BFC Education Foundation. This auction starts today, 12th September, and runs until 21st September. Just go to www.ebay.co.uk/bfc to bid!

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For more information on the Sheep Art campaign and Cool Wool, visit:

Merino.com/coolwool

 

New York

Fred and Lee will be hitting New York City September 16th – 18th. They’ll be staying at the Gramercy Park Hotel and are looking forward to seeing our New York clients. To arrange an appointment call +44 (0)20 7377 5770 or email bespoke@timothyeverest.co.uk.

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Mr Tim’s Tales: 2, The Gramercy

I’ll soon be wending my way back to NYC for the latest round of fixtures and fittings. I’ve always loved the energy coming off the Manhattan grid – it’s like being hit with a few thousand volts, every time – and I’ve made the Gramercy Park Hotel my home-away-from-home. It feels like a slice of an earlier, more gracious New York – if you’ve read The Goldfinch (and, if you have, wasn’t it brilliant and why isn’t it shortlisted for the Booker?), I can imagine Hobie’s old-school, ring-bell-for-entry antiques emporium on the same leafy red-brick block – even though its current Schraeger-Schnabel glamour puss incarnation is a far cry from its air of dowager grandeur when I first visited, in 1989.  I remember that trip well – I was presenting some ideas for a “Brit-inspired” collection for the US catalogue giant Spiegel’s. Several Martinis later it was clear that this project was a non-starter, but I did end up chatting with Matt Dillon, who was in residence at the time (yes, Matt Dillon! Rumble Fish! Drugstore Cowboy! Apropos, whatever happened to Matt Dillon?) There’s usually some star-spotting to be had at the Gramercy – a couple of years ago I was having drinks in the bar with David Nutter (Tommy’s brother), when Woody Allen came in – trotting a few meek-and-mild paces behind a fearsome looking Soon-Yi. Who might it be this time? Obviously Kimye and the full Jay Z-Beyonce-Blue Ivy set are the big scorecard names for celebrity housey-housey. I’ll keep you posted.

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Gramercy Park Hotel

 

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Matt Dillon

Why I Go To Mr Tim: Justin FitzPatrick

I have always had a bit of a colorful personality when it came to clothing. It was always about coordination/matching and doing things just a tad bit different, for example the blending of cultural dress styles, like English elegance with a relaxed Italian look. Trying to harmonise those things is what I have fun attempting. For me the idea of just sticking to one style, day in and day out, is just plain boring. Of course it will define your look as a man, but I rather dress to my moods (and the weather) as opposed to my signature look. Therefore, feeling and being different each day makes me throw on something completely alternative to the day before not only in color but also in style. And that is how I dress….

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Being like this has made my transition into Timothy Everest clothing quite exciting because he makes it easy as he has already done just that! Tim puts soft Italian shoulders on traditional British cloths/looks and creates a best of both worlds look. And not only that but he also puts his own personal twist on them. And that is what I love about Tim’s clothing. It has character: a touch of this, a dabble of that. These little details matter and for me, stand out in a subtle yet elegant way. And that is how I like to look at my own personality and style. So it’s as if Tim’s clothing was simply made for me, which makes it very easy to be attracted to nearly everything in his collections.

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And we can’t forget the fact that his style of design in clothing (classic base with modern twist) matches that of the way in which I design my own shoes. Therefore, when wearing my shoes and Tim’s clothing, everything seems to complement each other so effortlessly. So how can I not love that?!

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EASY RYDER

Want to get behind Our Boys for the forthcoming Ryder Cup? We’ve made it simple for you this year by designing the official European Fan Range of clothing, so you can cheer on Paul McGinley, Rory McIlroy & co. in various configurations of eye-catching, Birdie-or-even-Albatross-inspiring shades of blue and gold. There’s the polo shirt (contrast upper & cuffs, yellow collar trim & stripe detail), or the zippered shirt (contrast arms, yellow zipper & collar lining) and jacket (contrast upper, yellow zipper, stripes & collar lining). The official Ryder Cup shop has them, so this is your chance to turn Gleneagles a stylish and vivid shade of blue, firing up the players and setting off the greens to, well, a tee.

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Jeremy Franks; Lest We Forget

I am sad to report the recent death of my old boss and friend Jeremy Franks who I knew fondly as the “Colonel” whilst working with him at Daks as Group Creative Director in the early noughties.

A true Gentleman loved by all that new him with a tremendous sense of humour and respected within the clothing industry. He was of a stylish generation who new how to conduct business affairs politely and with good manners whilst making life fun.

Obituary from Drapers Online:

Jeremy Franks, former chief executive, Daks Simpson Group

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One of the finest ambassadors for classic British menswear, Jeremy Franks, who headed Daks Simpson for almost 20 years until 2004, died on August 14 after a year-long battle with cancer. He was 77.

 

Among the tributes for this very popular figure, Philip Mountford, chief executive of the Hunkemoller group in Holland and former chief executive of Moss Bros, recalled: “Jeremy was special to me as he gave me my first chance in business life (at Simpson Piccadilly) and nurtured and developed me through my early career.

 

“Jeremy was an incredible visionary who had the ability to spot talent and nurture it. He was a great marketer and brand builder who help bring Daks out of the Stone Age into being a global brand, and selling it for a great deal of money.

 

“More importantly, Jeremy was a people person, who would know and retain all the information about you and your family, and talk to everyone at all levels. He was the most stylish, sophisticated, intelligent, and worldly man I have ever met, who could converse at all levels, from stockroom boys to the Queen. He had an incredible presence. When he walked into a room, you would instantly know he had arrived.

 

“Jeremy Franks is an industry legend who will be remembered by everyone who met him.”

 

Educated at Wellington House and Lancing College, Franks was commissioned into the 1st King’s Dragoon Guards in 1955-57 and, throughout his career, carried an impressive military bearing that complemented his always-immaculate appearance.

 

Franks spent four decades working with classic British brands. After a short stint in his family’s building firm, he joined a West End woollen merchant, then a tie manufacturer in the exports sales department (he spoke French and German). In 1967 he was appointed European export marketing manager of Aquascutum. The following year he was transferred to north America, where he stayed for 14 years, first as managing director of Aquascutum Canada and then as senior executive vice president of Aquascutum, North America, based in Montreal.

 

After a three-year spell as managing director of Irving Samuel Clothing in north America, he returned to London in 1985 as managing director of Simpson (Piccadilly), the retail arm of the Daks Simpson group. By 1991 Franks was appointed managing director of the group, which incorporated the retail division, a manufacturing division based at its factory in Larkhall, Scotland, a global licensing network (especially in Asia), and wholesaling of UK-manufactured products in the UK, Europe and America.

 

In 1992 Franks was made chief executive and managing director of Daks Simpson Group and a director of Sankyo Seiko after the Japanese conglomerate acquired the share capital of the UK listed company. The charismatic Franks remained in charge until his retirement in April 2004.

 

For many years, Franks was active in promoting British brands through the British Menswear Guild and he was among the founders of the Walpole Committee, which promotes British luxury goods.

 

“Jeremy was a wonderful spokesman for British menswear and earned the respect and admiration of all during his years at Daks Simpson, The Walpole Committee and the BMG,” said David Challinor, former secretary of the BMG .

 

Rugby, cricket, antiques, fine wines, theatre and, in retirement, The Pony Club, were among his diverse interests. He leaves his wife of 55 years, Elizabeth, daughter Amanda and granddaughter Amber. The funeral arrangements are yet to be announced.

 

Jeremy Christopher Reynell Franks: Born April 26, 1937; died August 14, 2014.